Welcome back to an original aBlogtoWatch feature, "My First Grail Watch." In this series, we ask prominent people in the watch industry about the first timepiece that they lusted after. Today, we are talking with one of the co-founders of Bell & Ross, Carlos Rosillo. Read on to learn about the family watch that inspired (and inspires) him.
The PAM00616 isn't cheap either - demanding a hefty premium for the privilege of wearing a watch with a case made out of a trademarked carbon cocktail. I mentioned earlier that the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Left-Handed PAM569 in titanium (limited to 1000 pieces) was one of my favorites, and it came with a price of ,600. The Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech 3 Days Automatic PAM00616 (not a limited edition) is priced at ,400. panerai.com
Inside the Urwerk UR-1001 is the Urwerk-produced caliber UR-10.01 automatic mechanical movement. Good thing it is an automatic, because this movement requires a lot of power to push around two satellite systems. The total power reserve is about 39 hours, and the UR-10.01 operates at 4Hz. One complication is a useful power reserve indicator, and another is a more strange function that Urwerk calls a running time indicator. This isn't the first time the luxury mechanical watch maker has been influenced by mobile phones. Turn the Urwerk Zeit Device over, and you'll see a linear 1000 year scale which goes with the 100 dial. Together, these indicators measure how long the device has been in operation (running) for up to 1000 years. If you need to ask why, ask your descendants in the year 2567, who will appreciate it much more than you do.
There actually is good reason for HMC's confidence that shines through their message. In our review of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue – which you can watch above and read the full written review soon – we praised the watch's exceptional legibility, courtesy of a combination of the clever dial and movement design that makes for the remarkably clean and simple display of its highly complex perpetual calendar complications. The month is indicated by the small, centrally mounted arrow hand, while the date is displayed on a large opening at the 3 o'clock position. The leap year indication has been exiled to the movement side, keeping the dial as simple as possible. Complex interfaces: tackled. So what about ergonomics and autonomy?
The main goal of the Urwerk HIS Infancy phase is to understand wearers' personal needs and habits in order to move to the next phase, which is the interactive phase between the Urwerk HIS and its owner.
There are notable changes on the outside as well: the new caliber makes its debut in the Zenith Elite 6150 – apparently baring the same name as the caliber inside – which is now 42 millimeters wide, "a new benchmark size for the brand," as Zenith puts it. That slightly larger case size is matched with a thickness of just 10 millimeters, rendering the watch highly wearable and relatively elegant, despite the larger diameter. At the time of this release, the previous Zenith Elite models with the Sellita movements no longer appear to be displayed on the brand's website, which implies that the Zenith Elite 6150 means an old-new chapter in the dress watch collection's life.
The point of the Swarovski Lovely Crystals watch is to offer something for the wearer to play with. The "Swarovski Zirconia" stones are locked in the ring but can otherwise move around. This means they are moving around while one wears the watch, but they can also be moved around with your fingers. An interesting little detail is a charm in the ring located at about 8 o'clock. By default, it is a small heart, but if you turn the watch over it is clear you can screw it out and insert a different charm image. The dial of this Swarovski Lovely Crystals watch is mother-of-pearl and is surrounded by another ring of crystals. While the dial is attractive, it is more for "elegant attire," given the lack of complete hour markers and its smallish size (that makes it harder to read, as compared to most other Swarovski watches). Nevertheless, the modern yet elegant style and the tactile experience of the Swarovski Lovely Crystals watch collection has made it a favorite among Swarovski consumers.
The Rolex Yacht-Master 116655 contains the in-house made caliber 3135 automatic movement while the smaller 268655 contains the 2236 automatic movement. Both are more or less functionally the same being three-hand movements with the date. What is very nice about the new Cerachrom bezel is Rolex's ability to craft it with the markers in relief - which is a new process that we are interested in hearing about. This adds a new character to the Yachtmaster that we haven't seen before.
The 44mm case is certainly built to protect, but it is relatively slender for one that carries a 300m water resistance rating. The dark blue also lends it a dressier appearance – perhaps at the cost of underwater legibility – as do the highly polished surfaces seen throughout the case. With the inclusion of the various subdials (small seconds and power reserve), it further breaks from others in the dive watch category, as does the cyclops over the date window at 6. While the musical watches the brand creates, as well as technical innovations like the Freak, gather a lot of attention, it is these sorts of "daily wear" watches that really underscore the fact that the brand is, along with technical innovations, building up watches for the luxury consumer.
Of course, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas and Overseas Chronograph watches aren't cheap. They are Vacheron Constantin timepieces after all. Though at this level, comparing similarly "prestigious" brands and their steel sports offerings the Overseas is at least competitive. Retail price for this ref. 49150/B01A-9745 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph watch with the blue dial is ,500. vacheron-constantin.com
By the way, I love the fact that literally the entire watch crown is a diamond. In fact, so little of what you can see is the actual white gold case, that most of what you experience with the Jacob & Co. Billionaire watch outside of the dial is just diamonds.
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Those of you in the know will see a direct through-line for these three companies by way of current Montblanc CEO Jerome Lambert. Before taking over at Montblanc, Lambert was CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre and supervised A. Lange & Sohne. If you're a JLC or ALS purist, then I could see the family resemblance bothering your sensibilities. But if you're simply a watch enthusiast and consumer, you now have an additional option when looking for a classy dual time watch.
The testing is done by Rolex's specially programmed high-technology equipment and an exclusive methodology that simulates the conditions in which a watch is actually worn. That likely includes the simulation of how the watch takes up countless different positions when worn on the wrist every day, how it is subjected to sudden moves, and also probably of how the watches remain stationary for 8-10 hours each day, when they are not worn.
As an aBlogtoWatch guest, Hugh Taylor from Xupes.com (a pre-owned watches and luxury goods dealer in the UK) interviews their in-house master watchmaker, Mickey Nolan, as he proceeds to service and dissemble this famous work-horse mechanical movement - the caliber 3135 by Rolex - which is found in a series of watches, including the Submariner. Mr. Nolan offers some interesting insights into the movement and a fantastic look at what many watch lovers can appreciate in theory, but don't always know as intimately as a watchmaker who deals with them on a regular basis.
- Rose gold, argenté dial 1341-0103 ,000
- Rose gold, black dial 1341-0102 ,000
- Rose gold, fumé dial 1341-0107 ,000
- Platinum, ardoise dial 1341-0300 ,000
- Golden Edition,gold fumé dial 1341-0101 0,000
- Black Edition, matte black dial 1341-0500 ,000
- White gold, argenté dial 1341-0204 ,000
- White gold, fumé dial 1341-0205 ,000
- Palladium, blue fumé dial 1341-0601 ,000
Logically, they might simply produce TAG Heuer Aryton Senna Edition Link watches. Aryton Senna was, in fact, a TAG Heuer brand ambassador and "his" models helped pave a path for the Link collection. What is also salient about Ayrton Senna this year is that his face appeared on legacy advertisements with the "Don't Crack Under Pressure" slogan. If you've been paying attention, that same slogan is back (with a hashtag - #DontCrackUnderPressure), for a new generation of TAG Heuer enthusiasts. Instead of Link collection TAG Heuer Senna Edition watches, they are TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Edition and TAG Heuer Carrera Senna Edition models - albeit, with Link-style bracelets.
The deployant also ended up causing me some issues in the wear of the watch. Over the course of a day, I would feel like the clasp was digging into my wrist. Taking the watch off would confirm that as well. I tried adjusting the size it was set at, but then ended up with a watch that was too loose on the wrist. So, this is something that I would be aware of. Then again, this seems to be a common issue I run into with deployants on leather (oddly enough, on a bracelet, I have no issues). They just add too much bulk, and when they pair with a thicker strap as we have here, you can get discomfort.
Looking at the Dewitt Academia Grand Tourbillon makes me think of something about how people judge watch design to day. I love how, from time to time, the luxury watch industry somehow inexplicably feels the need to apologize for producing ostentatious products. There is such a big push for "under the radar" and "stealth wealth" that each time certain types of watch collectors see something with a wild design they freak out. These people need to chill and recall that, like traditional art, timepieces are artistic as well. They also serve a double purpose to express both taste and status. You might not like the design of a watch but there is no need to yell from the hilltops that brands are wrong to attempt original or fresh designs. Luxury watches are about showing off (something), and whether or not you agree with what that thing is let's not delude ourselves that many high-end timepieces are meant to have a place on someone's wrist who feels as though they have afforded themselves the right to "say" something to to the world.
It was back in 2013 that Louis Vuitton initially introduced the Tambour éVolution collection which simply added some styling cues and more intricate details as well as a more traditionally round case to the "dog bowl" case design of the original Tambour. I've actually never seen a Tambour case in black, so that was my immediate interest in these new Louis Vuitton Tambour éVolution GMT in Black models. Note that prior to the DLC-coating application, the steel cases were brushed and polished in different areas - which is visible through the coating. With their unique lug structure, the Tambour éVolution watches wear distinctively, but also comfortably. You sort of love or hate them.
Stepan Sarpaneva: While I was in school (from 1989 to 1992), my grail watch was a Rolex. After my schooling, I was working in Switzerland, and my grail watch would have been something from Patek.