Attached to the same retro-futuristic rubber strap, the Horlogical Machine No. 5 RT retains the bold looks of the original. It isn't a watch for everyone, but as we stated in our original review, the watch is exceptionally well done for what it is. MB&F will release the HM5 RT as a limited edition of just 66 pieces at a price of ,000. mbandf.com
The dial is very much in the vein of the classic Omega Speedmaster– an enduring success because of how well it combines simplicity with functionality. The black dial is contrasted with white numerals and hands– each relatively thin but highly viewable. A ring of minute markers has slightly longer batons at each five minute marker, and distinct hour markers are also added below for added utility. The hour markers are also not uniform with longer (but proportionally thinner) markers at each quarter.
So that takes me back to the original question of what is wrong with the watch industry in 2014? Is something wrong at all? Well, yes. Let's just point out a few of the issues that exist. First of all, interesting new watch models are scarce, prices are still unreasonable, distribution is poor, marketing efforts are often ineffective, and consumers are increasingly confused. So let me go over each of these issues in brief. This article is not meant to be an academic treatise discussing all of the problems that exist and how to fix them, but rather a starting point for discussion and to offer an aBlogtoWatch opinion on what is going on in the industry that we are a part of.
The Design Desert
As spring approaches, we check out new watches from Panerai, Bovet, Christophe Claret, F.P. Journe and many more. We also find out how time is kept and measured; pay a visit to Roger Smith on the Isle of Man; find out more about the story of one man’s hunt for his grail watch; and get a rare sneak peek into the workshops of one of the biggest brands in the world, Rolex.
Normal mechanical watches are somewhat anti-magnetic, but not much. They can resist up to maybe 90 Gauss. Traditional anti-magnetic watches contain an iron shield around the movement to protect against magnetic fields. These protect up to about 1,000 Gauss, which is pretty good, but does prevent a watch that offers a view of the movement. It is unclear when or how most people would come into contact with stronger magnetic fields unless they worked around an MRI machine or in some type of aviation or industrial capacity, but it could happen. In any event, Omega sought out to beat all records by producing a watch movement capable of withstanding up to about 15,000 Gauss, and offering a display caseback to view the movement.
Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement, self-winding, 32 jewels, diameter 38 mm, thickness 7.39 mm, power reserve 50 h, 28,800 vibrations/h
Good luck, and thanks to Marvin, the sponsor of the Origin Gen Mechanical watch giveaway here at aBlogtoWatch!
Bulova Precisionist Wilton Chronograph Watch Review
His choice in the years before his passing was a drug store Timex with a simple analog dial and black strap. It was functional, it was demure, and it irritated me to no end. He knew he had better watches, and he knew it annoyed me. He had a spirit of peaceful protest, not because he wanted to anger me, but because he genuinely liked it, and always taught me and others to be tolerant. It was his way of saying "I respect that you are a watch snob, and I love nice watches, but I also want you to come down to earth a bit and realize that sometimes simple tastes are not wrong."
Hublot Big Bang Atomic D-38 Watch Proves Your Manliness With Radioactive Uranium
It feels like quite a long time since we first saw the Omega Seamaster Bullhead at BaselWorld this past spring. Now officially announced, this quirky new chronograph was inspired by the 1969 Seamaster Driver (aka the Bullhead) and sports only a few changes when compared to that original, and very rare, Omega chronograph.
The Officer’s Day/Date Mechanical is a heck of a watch. At around 0 (or less, if you look around) it’s in a pretty competitive price point, but I’d imagine it blows most of the competition out of the water. This is a well-made, well-finished, classic, dependable watch. Nothing gimmicky. It just works. It may not be the most interesting watch in the world, but it’s incredibly practical and plenty good looking. It’s really grown to be a favorite in my collection. A million thanks to Victorinox and aBlogtoWatch for this beautiful piece. I couldn’t be happier.
Wanna Sell Your Watch? Right Now Could Be The Time
Also notable is an exceptional Daytona reference 6239 with exotic Paul Newman dial that will capture the attention of all connoisseurs, lot 305. This model displays a very rare dial, featuring colour-changed registers and outer track. The discoloration, a result of age and patination, fades the usual black color to a shade of chocolate brown which enhances the watch, giving it a stunning vintage appearance.
For me this is the best part of the Stop2Go timepieces. The movement is interesting, but the new case design is very nice. In steel, the brushed case is 41mm wide and features a more modern, industrial design compared to the typical Mondaine look that people tend to think of. A unique feature is the crown, which is designed to look like a rocker switch. Hopefully it isn't too difficult to pull out, but it does look good. This is probably my favorite new Mondaine watch in quite some time.
In conclusion, jewels ensure a watch can function for longer periods between servicing and also ensure that the damage to high wear points is greatly reduced. It is worth noting, some brands have brought back the use of chatons (a difficult technique where small brass or gold settings are used to fit the jewel into the movement plate) and in some watches the setting of jewels is almost an art form.
Regardless of the case extensions, it is a fairly compact affair for a modern watch - the case, which is available in pink gold or steel, measures in at a modernly modest 41.5mm (and is only 13mm thick). Combined with either the steel bracelet or a leather strap (that has a material-matched folding clasp), and you've definitely got the makings of a distinctive dress chronograph - especially when you consider that the hands and applied indices on the dial pick up the same material (and color) from the case.
Right off the bat, you've got a much darker watch. While the regular Tyndall is in a brushed/polished case, the new LE features a deep PVD black. While they could have paired that with their existing black dial, Xetum upped the ante and instead went with carbon fiber.
To track the two different time zones, Patek has actually gone with two hour hands. The skeletonized one is for tracking your home time zone, while the solid one tracks the local hour. This accomplishes two things quite handily.
Peter Roberts (PR): I have been in the industry for 45 years. I have worked for many watch companies over the years including Rolex in Geneva and as Technical Director and Director of Watchmaking for two brands. I taught Horology for many years in London where amongst my students were Stephen Forsey and Peter Speake Marin. I write as Technical editor for QP Magazine and have developed a 2013 version of the watch I made in 1970 whilst a student at Wostep Switzerland. The watch is called the Grand Complication 5 "Concentrique".
This is accomplished in the usual ways: with a screw down crown, locking chrono pushers, and a thick sapphire crystal. The crystal is, as you would expect, double-AR coated. When you've got this paired with the high-contrast black-and-white dial, you've got a watch that should remain nicely readable whether or not you're in the water; larger, lume-filled hands also enhance that effect. Just make sure that if you're jumping into the water, you get the chronograph ticking away (and locked back down) before you slip beneath the waves, lest you give the movement a saltwater bath.
A "professional dive watch" must be water resistant to 300 meters. In today's world of "ultra divers" 300 meters is barely anything to applaud. The Rolex Submariner does 300 meters without a sweat and is Rolex's entry dive watch model next to the much deeper diving Seadweller or Deepsea. Having said that, 300 meters is really the limit of how deep most divers will ever go. In fact, according to Wikipedia, 318 meters is the deepest anyone has ever gone using Scuba equipment.
With paillonné the blue enamel is enriched with tiny motifs or chips of silver which the craftsman "shaved" from a block of silver. The particles are called paillons, and are added to the enamel when it is still liquid. Once the enameled components are past their 800 degree Celsius cooking, the tiny silver particles are to be revealed and brought to the surface. To do this, the dial has to be polished in a way that removes just enough material to better highlight the tiny silver particles, while not damaging the thin layer of enamel. How it is achieved on the surfaces of the curved and stacked "steps" leading to the tourbillon is something I would love to see in person!